Whether you're a beginner or have been using retinol for years, knowing how to combine it with the right moisturizer can make the difference between radiant or irritated skin. This wonderful ingredient offers extraordinary benefits, but it needs a perfect partner: a good moisturizer. Discover how to create this winning combination to transform your facial care routine.
What are retinols and what are their benefits?
Retinols are vitamin A derivatives that act as a "personal trainer" for your skin. Among their multiple benefits we find:
- Stimulate collagen production
- Accelerate cell renewal
- Regulate and improve pigmentation
- Unclog pores
The key to taking advantage of these benefits lies in consistency over intensity. Using a low percentage of retinol consistently will give you better results than applying high concentrations sporadically.
Common challenges when using retinol
Despite its advantages, retinols come with some drawbacks that many experience:
- Intense dryness
- Visible redness
- Skin flaking
- Feeling of itching or irritation
This occurs during the "retinization process," when retinol increases cell renewal but can compromise the upper layer of the skin (stratum corneum). When this barrier is weakened, there is greater transepidermal water loss and damage to the lipid matrix, leaving the skin vulnerable to external irritants.
Why hydration is crucial when using retinol
This is where moisturizers come in, performing three essential functions:
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Rebuild the lipid matrix by providing ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids that restore the integrity of the skin barrier.
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Reduce inflammation and redness thanks to soothing ingredients like niacinamide (up to 5%), panthenol, or allantoin, which help the skin heal more efficiently.
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Maintain the optimal pH of the skin, an essential factor for healthy enzymatic activity and proper functioning of the skin barrier.
How to incorporate retinol into your routine: 3 key steps
Step 1: Start slowly
It's not a race. Start with spaced applications:
- First week: once a week, only at night
- Following weeks: gradually increase (twice non-consecutively, then three times...)
- Don't increase frequency until your skin perfectly tolerates the previous one
Step 2: Avoid irritating ingredients
On nights when you use retinol, especially at the beginning, avoid:
- Chemical exfoliants (glycolic, lactic, mandelic acid)
- Vitamin C in the form of ascorbic acid (you can use other less irritating forms)
- Benzoyl peroxide (use it in the morning if necessary)
Step 3: Master the art of layering
There are three ways to incorporate retinol according to your sensitivity level:
- For experienced users: cleansing → retinol → serums → moisturizer
- For beginners: cleansing → serums → retinol → moisturizer
- For sensitive skin: cleansing → serums → moisturizer → retinol
The last option "buffers" the retinol more, making it less effective but also less irritating, which is preferable in the long run to avoid damaging collagen.
Recommended moisturizers to use with retinol
Depending on your skin's sensitivity, you can choose between:
Light options
- Hydrating gel with oats, glycerin, or centella asiatica to soothe and hydrate
Intermediate options
- Creams with ceramides and lipid complexes that restore the skin barrier
Intensive options
- Repairing balms with colloidal oatmeal for very irritated skin
- Rich creams with shea butter and squalane for very dry skin
- As a last resort for severe irritations: diaper rash cream with zinc oxide
Special considerations for sensitive areas
Some areas require additional attention:
- Eye area: Always apply moisturizer before retinol, using a minimal amount
- Around the mouth: This area is especially prone to irritation (the "death kiss"). Always moisturize before applying retinol
- Neck: Like the eye area, moisturize first and use minimal amounts of retinol
By following these tips, you'll be able to enjoy all the benefits of retinol without the unpleasant side effects. Patience and proper hydration are your best allies on this journey toward healthier, rejuvenated skin.